How to Draw Metal Studs in Plan

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Steel framing is used in most function and commercial construction, and it has several advantages over forest. Steel studs are perfectly straight, and they don't compress, split, rot, or mold. They are also easy to store. Read on to find out how to build with steel studs.

1. 1

   Hire or purchase the right tools. Working with steel studs requires a few special tools. You can typically get the best equipment for this at local construction rental stores. You will need:

   • Metal cut-off saw
   • Fasteners
   • A hammer drill
   • Screw gun
   • Chalk box
   • Level
   • Laser level or plumb bob^[i]
   • Clamps

2. 2

   Determine the number of steel studs needed. You should typically allow for one stud per every 12 inches (300 mm) of linear wall infinite. Purchase steel plates — also called tracks — for the bottom and top of the wall by measuring the linear anxiety of the wall and doubling it. Add an boosted stud for each side of a window or door.

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3. 3

   Chalk the lines where the rails will be fastened to the floor using a chalk box. Snap a chalk line across the perimeter of the floor to outline where your runway will need to go.

4. 4

   Screw the lower lengths of track to the flooring. Use the chalk line to position your lower track and screw the track in by first drilling a hole into the track and stud, and so fastening with a screw. If you're drilling through concrete, effort using the power nailer or hammer drill for an easier time.^[2]

   • Negotiate corners and long straight lines when laying track. Overlap rails corners by flattening the kickoff rail's side flange so the overlapping rail can slide right into place. On longer, straight runs, overlap the adjoining tracks at to the lowest degree vi inches and secure the overlap to the floor with a concrete screw.^[3]

5. 5

   Plumb the top runway. To make sure that the upper and lower track are plumb, you can employ either a light amplification by stimulated emission of radiation level, a plumb bob, or two water levels:

   • To utilize a laser level, but place information technology in the lesser middle of the rail and turn information technology on to shine a vertical laser up to your wall. This point will exist your plumb signal on the upper wall. Most contractors recommend using a laser level for efficiency and ease of access.
   • Using a plumb bob is like to using a laser level. Attach the string to the acme of the wall and let the bob come to a residue at the plumb line on the bottom of the flooring.
   • If you take neither a laser level nor a plumb bob, you can try using two water levels pressed together. Keeping both levels together, extend one to the ceiling and other to the floor, making sure that both levels are plumb. Mark off your plump line on the floor or ceiling.

6. 6

   Once plumb is established, attach the track to the upper ceiling. Use a drill and spiral gun to the attach the runway, pretty much only every bit yous attached the ground track.

   • If your rails runs perpendicular to the ceiling joists, fasten the track to the joists with self-tapping drywall screws.
   • If your rail runs parallel to the ceiling joists, fasten the runway to the joists with drywall anchors or secure it with grabber screws and gum.^[4]

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1. ane

   To trim to correct length, cut both side flanges of a steel stud. Use straight-cut aviation snips for this. Bend one flange up, clear of the snips' jaws, and cut beyond the stud's web.^[5]

   • For easier electrical and plumbing installations subsequently on, proceed all the keyhole knockouts aligned by cutting all studs to length from the same end. Protect your hands with heavy-duty gloves.
   • To cutting multiple pieces at once, use a miter saw with a metal cutting blade.
   • Make cut the studs with aviation snips easier past commencement scoring the studs with a utility knife on both sides and so angle the stud back and along until it breaks autonomously.

2. 2

   Bring together studs to tracks by clamping the two members tightly with C-clamp locking pliers. Drive a i/2 inch (one.2 cm) No. 8 pan-head screw in the middle where they meet. This should be done at medium speed.^[6]

   • Choose a clutch setting strong enough to drive the screw dwelling house, merely not then strong that it strips the screw hole and weakens the joint.

3. 3

   Fabricate metal headers past cutting the track 2 inches (v cm) longer than the rough opening width. Cut each flange of the rails (on both ends) 1 inch (2.5 cm) lengthwise. Bend the spider web downwards 90 degrees using sheet metal locking pliers.^[7]

4. iv

   Secure electrical cable along the centre line of each stud with plastic ties screwed to the studs. Pop a plastic bushing into each knockout in order to keep the cable from rubbing against the sharp edges.

5. 5

   Add together forest blocking as needed for doors, windows and cabinets. If your steel stud wall seems flimsy, keep in mind that it gains full rigidity once drywall or sheathing is practical.

6. vi

   Hang drywall or sheathing using 1-1/4 inch (3. ane cm), cocky-borer drywall screws. They should be spaced every viii inches (20.3 cm) forth edges (where 2 sheets meet on a stud) and 12 inches (30.five cm) on centers located elsewhere.

   • Apply screws with a fine thread instead of a coarse one.
   • Cheque your local codes. They may require screws placed closer together, and you're better off having also many than having to add more after the inspector comes.

7. 7

   Finished. Your new metal studs won't rot, sag, or exist susceptible to fire. Larn how to hang drywall and finish the process.

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• Steel studs are sold in a variety of widths that are comparable to dimensional lumber sizes.

• With lengths and gauges, the lower the judge number, the thicker the steel.

• At door jambs, if you trim a wooden 2x4 (5 cm x 10 cm) slightly, it volition slide inside of the steel stud. This makes the door frame much sturdier and hinges easier to adhere. Also, the house won't milkshake so much when your teenager slams their sleeping room door!

• Levels with one magnetic side are helpful when working with steel studs.

• The flange on a steel stud is flexible and may deflect when you're trying to pierce it with a drywall screw, especially when ii panel edges meet on a single stud. To preclude this and give information technology rigidity, secure the first panel to the open side of the stud (the ane that's opposite the web) and so hang the second panel. Grip the back of the stud flange near the screw connection point with your fingers in club to give it back up and then bulldoze the screw.

• Some people detect it well worth the actress money to utilise stiffeners or 20 gauge studs rather than the usual 25 guess ones. The walls feel more than solid and the cost difference typically isn't all that much.

• Cocky-tapping screws brand joining pieces much easier.

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• Brand sure that your builder or designer'south plans aren't drawn for wood dimensions.

• Don't try nailing trim into steel studs, unless it is a low-cal gauge stud. It will not hold. Instead, use specially designed trim screws for the task.

• For heavy cabinets such as overhead kitchen cabinets, keep in mind that steel studs may non be strong enough to back up their weight, even with drywall on them. Install solid wood blocking to these areas to help hold up the cabinets.

• Doing any blazon of work using power tools while tired or in a blitz may lead to injury.

• Cut steel is sharp, so brand certain to wearable gloves.^[8]

• Wear eye protection when cut steel and driving screws. Information technology's non unheard of for a screw to jump off the power screwdriver and shoot out at you.^[9]

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Things You'll Demand

• Steel studs
• Lengths
• Gauges
• Advisable tools

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Article Summary X

To install metal studs, determine how many studs you'll need by measuring the surface area, keeping in mind that you will need to install one stud every 12 inches. As you measure, use a chalk line to mark every 12" where yous'll need a stud. And then, install the lower track to the flooring and use a level or plum bob to ensure the top runway is parallel to the lesser one. Later your tracks are installed, cutting your flanges, studs, and metal headers. Once they are cut, install them using cocky-borer screws. For tips from our Structure reviewer on how to install drywall or sheathing over your metal studs, keep reading!

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